Before my trip this summer, Aboriginal art meant little to me – but going to Australia has a way of changing your preconceptions and opening you up to new experiences. Flying out of the tropical heat of Darwin in an alarmingly tiny plane and landing 250 miles east, in Australia’s Aboriginal and wildlife wilderness, I expected to find the kind of desert scenery you see in photos of Uluru . There was my first preconception shattered. Arnhem Land is a 37,000-square-mile expanse, north of Kakadu National Park , of grasslands, flood plains and rainforest. The area I was to explore has had an Aboriginal presence for at least 40,000 years and, as a registered sacred site owned by the Aboriginal people, offers entry by permit only. While many visitors come to hunt and fish, art-lovers like me come because it is honeycombed with caves containing thousands of paintings, some thought to date back 20,000 years.